Assembling Hydraulic Servo Into LADA 2101
There were a couple of issues and adjustments I had to do so that the system could fit perfectly:
1) cooling propeller collides with the new pulley, in this vehicle the cooling propeller is connected to the water pump and it is pretty close to the engine. I had to make 8mm thick washer (and it put between the water pump and propeller - using longer screws compared to previous ones), to get the propeller closer to cooler (and in addition cut off some small parts from propeller wings)
2) On the block of the engine, there was no hole with thread to assemble pump holder, so I had to drill the hole (diameter 6.5mm) and cut thread M8
(this was a minor and issue, there is a spot on the engine block, only the hole with the twist were missing)
3) The steering box fit into the car with no problem, of course, I had to create a bigger hole between the engine section and interior. Note, that new hydraulic steering box is bigger, so after assembling, the part of the box is “in the interior” and arm of the breaking pedal collides with the steering box (see point 5). Of course, there is a gap between the steering box and edge of the new hole (previous mechanical box was smaller and only shaft hole was needed with a rubber seal around the shaft). Now I had to fill the gap anyhow (dust prevention etc). So I created additional tin shield around the steering box, using two rivets and glue (picture) to seal all the gaps.
4) I did not have space for oil reservoir, it collided with wiper reservoir, so I had to move wiper reservoir closer to the cooling reservoir and make an additional holder to assemble oil reservoir holder (picture)
5) The break pedal collided with bigger steering box (new steering box extends around 5-7cm into the interior, and when pressing break pedal, the arm of breaking pedal hits the steering box - it is not possible to press the pedal to the floor, meaning it has not “full range movement”. I had to bend the arm of the pedal (heating to red and shaping it in the hydraulic press into exact shape) so the arm would avoid steering box. After the arm had the shape, I checked the arm carefully preventing any possible cracks, that could be created during “shaping process”. Any cracks have to be welded. I changed the route of the cables of the break light switch.
The new shape of break pedal is in the picture:
The original steering wheel shaft on Lada 2101 is only simple bar going directly from steering wheel to steering box. On the side of the steering wheel (driver), the shaft has a notched part with thread at the end to ensure the steering wheel with the central nut.
On the opposite side (steering box), the shaft has a notched ring to connect the shaft to the steering box (to be connected to the notched shaft from box) and to be ensured with screw and nut. In the part where the car keys are put (from the left side of steering shaft), there is a simple welded cylinder with a notch, that is intended to lock the steering wheel (see picture bellow).
On the other side - hydraulic steering box has different geometry, so it is assumed that the steering wheel is connected to steering box via cardan joint (included in kit). This solution assumes that:
steering shaft is shorter (to be able to assemble cardan joint between the steering box and steering shaft)
we have to solve the problem that such connection (between the steering wheel and steering box) would have an axial backlash (another words said, it would be possible to pull steering wheel a bit)
It is impossible to use the original shaft (it has different ends), but as I found out, there is a perfectly fitting steering shaft in Fiat 126 (actually LADA 2107 shaft is required - LadaMoscow).
This shaft has both ends as we need, also the length is accurate. We need to reconstruct shaft mounting in the pipe (housing), which the shaft is going through. Shaft diameter is 19mm, and pipe (which shaft is passing through and where the steering lock is), has inside diameter 33,7mm. I decided to use needle bearings (NKI 20/16 https://reling.sk/sk/ihlickove/2050-nki-20-16-lozisko.html). Since the bearing has inside diameter 20mm, I had to make reduction on a lathe. The same for outside diameter. The bearing is 32mm and housing is 33.7mm.
See the following drawing:
In the following picture there is the detail of the “steering wheel locking cylinder”. For new shaft I made a new such part on the lathe and welded it on the new (fiat 126) shaft to the exact position as on the original one. After welding I aligned the welding on the lathe, since there was bearing on the side (in contrast to the original one where welding material was no problem)
by František Bachleda (firstname.lastname@example.org)